BEAUTIFUL GYEONGJU
By Anthony Rosero

“When the spirits are low, when the day appears dark, when work becomes monotonous, when hope hardly seems worth having, just mount a bicycle and go out for a spin down the road, without thought on anything but the ride you are taking.” ~Sherlock Holmes
It’s no surprise that this city is coined “beautiful Gyeongju.” Everywhere you turn, you are bound to take amazing pictures with even the cheapest Kodak camera in hand. Gyeongju is a city with a rich, royal history. No one can deny that the towering tombs of kings and queens, the stoic statues of Buddha, and the elegant temples are just some of the best sites to visit when exploring my city.
If you ever plan to visit beautiful Gyeongju, I suggest renting a bicycle around the city. The most important item that I wanted to have when I first settled in my EPIK post in Gyeongju was a bicycle. It has been my saving grace. Not only has it saved me money but it has also given me a deeper appreciation for the beauty of Gyeongju. We sometimes forget that the road leading to a site is just as meaningful if not more so as taking pictures of statues and monuments.
One such moment was on my way to Mt. Namsan. I saw an elderly woman who looked as someone who had lived a life of simplicity. She was dressed in a gray outfit, wore a straw hat and her strong legs were deeply planted in the wet mud. She was bent from the waist down. She wasn’t in any way seeking attention, but for some reason she got mine. I stopped and admired how she placed tiny rice stalks in the mud. All I could think at that moment was how enormous the field was and how much she still had yet to plant. It was so easy to ignore this scene and set my focus on reaching the base of Mt. Namsan. And yet, there I was truly touched by this elderly woman’s earnest work. Yes, Korea has a booming economy. When people think of Korea, many think of the fast internet services or the catchy K-Pop music. We forget that it’s from the backs of these diligent workers that Korea has propelled itself to a successful future.
When you go hiking at Mt. Namsan, you can’t help but be amazed by the history of the mountain. There are hundreds of statues, temples, pagodas and other relics scattered all over the mountain. I took trail number ten and was pleasantly surprised at how popular this particular trail was. Right at the half way point where one starts to slow down, a statue of the biggest Buddha I’ve ever seen stands serenely on the rock face of the mountain. It’s a stunning statue overlooking gorgeous valleys below. A friend of mine said, “This hike may have been a workout, but it’s the highlight of my trip in Gyeongju. There is nothing more meaningful than to feel good about what I’ve accomplished on this mountain. The reward is a majestic view of Gyeongju city.”
After the hike back down you may find it strange to eat Kal Guksu, a home-made noodle soup. But many local hikers enjoy this meal. At the base of the mountain is a restaurant called Samneung Gohyeang Sohn Kal Guksu. You will find elderly ladies kneading flour and making these homemade noodles in front of your eyes. It’s one of the best noodles I’ve eaten and it only costs 4500 Won. These noodles are so popular among hikers that once you sit down, there is no need to say anything. They just bring out a steaming bowl of Kal Guksu.
For a longer bike ride try Bulguksa Temple and Seokgorram Grotto. It’s a forty-five minute to an hour ride but I’m sure you’ll get as much satisfaction from it as I did. You’ll pass beautiful mountains and rice fields. For me, it’s an hour of just basking in the beauty of the countryside and feeling how blessed I am to have been chosen to work for EPIK.
Bulguksa is known to be the Korean government’s historic site number one. It is recognized as of international significance by the UNESCO organization. It has a number of Korean treasures still on display. If you have a 10 won coin handy you’ll find one of the treasures-the Dabotap pagoda on the face of the coin. The temple is truly a magnificent sight. I can’t help but be happy with my photo shots when comparing it to pictures on postcards because they almost seem to look as good. This is not because of my abilities with fancy cameras, but because the structures at Bulguksa are just that picturesque!
Now you can’t visit Bulguksa without also visiting Seokguram Grotto, which is just 4 kilometers away. If you are not eccentric enough to bike up the mountain, you can walk your bike and hike for an hour to reach the site and then be eccentric enough to bike ride down the mountain instead. I’ve actually met a foreign teacher who has done just that. I could only imagine the thrill he got from riding down the mountain. I just might try that before my year ends.
But Seogkuram Grotto is probably the cream of the crop in destinations to visit in Gyeongju. Its architecture is stunning. To think that the stones were held together with only stone rivets since no mortar existed back then is just beyond me. Disappointingly, the Buddha could only be viewed through a glass wall. All I could do was stare at it for a long time so that the memory didn’t fade. Regardless, it’s a destination where visitors from all over the world visit. Some even trek early in the morning to enjoy the sunrise jutting out of the East Sea. There are also bus shuttles that go up the site every forty minutes.
One popular restaurant in the Bomun Lake area serves Sundubu(tofu stew). The stew itself is delicious, but a typical traditional meal always has colorful side-dishes. Your eyes will pop from the blend of flavors of sweet, spicy, and salty. I recommend going with another person just in case they only serve the meal for two.
Other famous sites are Cheomseongdae, Anapji Pond, and Oreung tombs. These sites are close enough to each other that riding a bike to travel from one to another should be easy. The summer season is the best time to visit these places since live music performances are held on weekends. Strolling around Anapji Pond and imagining what it feels like to visit a place where kings and queens have walked before is an incredible feeling. As an added bonus, Gyeongju residents don’t need to pay for tickets at these downtown sites. I simply show them my alien registration card and I can enjoy the sites for as long as I want.
Getting hungry? During the summer season there is a very popular noodle soup prepared with ice. Yes, that’s right. It’s not hot soup, but cold soup. It’s called Milmyeon or Naengmyeon depending on the kind you order. Two of the most popular restaurants are located downtown. These small shops have customers lining outside the restaurant just to eat these popular summer dishes. It’s worth trying and experiencing the simple joy of eating authentic Korean food with the locals.
“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” This quote from Jawaharlal Nehru really sums up what it’s like to visit new places. When you come to Gyeongju, make sure to visit these famous sites, but also try to explore beyond them, too. Open your eyes and see the beauty of a strong woman working diligently in the rice fields. Eat with the locals in restaurants that are not known for their spacious seating. Ride a bike. All these things will show you more than what you hoped for. You will discover traveling in a whole new light.